The Water Wave Challenge

Water waves present a special challenge to understand, but with careful observation you can do it!

Remember back in in the Session One Reader's Theater when the characters said the following?

​Shani: It sort of looks like the waves are bringing in water from way out in the ocean...Luisa: ...but that's not true! Really the water here near the shore is just going up and down, and maybe a little back and forth.Journey: So when I see a water wave, I’m really just seeing energy traveling? And the water isn't going anywhere?Luisa: It's moving a little, but hardly at all compared to the wave energy.Journey: That is too strange. Now my brain hurts...

Option One:

Below is a model of the surface of water waves. Examine the model closely and observe the motion of the dots. Are water waves transverse? Longitudinal? Or maybe something else? Come up with the best description you can.

When you think you have a good idea, look at Dan Russell's website from Penn State University. Observe his model of water waves and read his explanation. Was your idea on the right track? Also compare his other models to the ones you have worked with previously in this unit. Notice anything different in his models?

Option Two:

Sometimes people get the wrong idea about water waves when watching surfers. They think that since a surfer is moving quickly toward the shore, the water must also be moving toward the shore along with surfer. Remember what Luisa said though: "...but that's not true!"

Use the model below to begin constructing a theory about why the beach ball and the surfer interact with the wave so differently. This is tricky! Good luck! Be ready to present your thinking during a class discussion.

​

 

 

Wondering why waves at the beach break? Click here.

 

TSUNAMI ACTIVITY COMING SOON